ANNA WINTOUR, editor in chief of Vogue, was just winding up a holiday lunch with three colleagues in the Grill Room of the Four Seasons yesterday when a well-dressed woman approached her table, pulled out a dead raccoon and tossed it onto her plate.

''Anna wears fur hats!'' the woman screamed and dashed out before anyone could apprehend her.

Other diners fell silent. Ms. Wintour retained her cool, turned to STEVEN T. FLORIO, the president and chief executive of Conde Nast, which publishes Vogue, and said, ''Merry Christmas.'' The raccoon was removed, and the editor calmly finished her coffee.

Though the protester remains unidentified, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals in Norfolk, Va., claimed responsibility for the incident. Michael McGraw, a PETA spokesman, said that a woman who said she was a member had phoned and said she had thrown the animal.

''We think this was terrific,'' he said. ''It doesn't matter who did it. We are thrilled when our members take it on themselves to act. We have had a longstanding campaign against showing fur in Vogue.''

Ms. Wintour would not comment, but Paul Wilmot, the vice president for public relations at Conde Nast, said the company would not be swayed by such actions. ''We feature fur editorially and carry fur advertising in our magazines,'' he said. ''This will in no way alter our position on this issue.''

JULIAN NICCOLINI, a partner in the Four Seasons, said: ''It was something I wish never to see in my life again. I don't think this is the right avenue to do anything like this.''

But he added, ''We are holding the raccoon in the freezer in case she comes back.''